Ynys Môn / Anglesey – Ynys Lawd South Stack Lighthouse

Hello again people and pooches. Joe the Cocker here after a visit to Ynys Môn / Anglesey. Rather than being a hike, this was more of a short stop and a butchers around. We parked in the RSPB car park a hundred yards before the visitor centre car park as the latter was full to bursting. We naively thought that the area would be quiet as the school summer holidays were over. It looked like every ‘man and his dog’ had the same idea. We found the last parking spot in the lower car park, but my human, being a tight wad, didn’t want to pay the £6 all-day parking fee, so he was preparing to buy an hour ticket for £2. He was talking to an Australian family in the queue to pay. My human was explaining how he was scammed for £36 last year when he paid for parking by using the app. They asked how long we were staying and my human said that it was a flying visit for an hour. The Australian family bought our ticket! We were really shocked and grateful. He said that he wouldn’t call Australia the bad word that he calls the rugby next time Wales play them. They thought that he was funny. It’s fortunate that he didn’t tell them what that word was!

We knew that we wouldn’t be walking to the lighthouse as pooches are not welcome on the small island of Ynys Lawd that it is built on. We were happy to admire the exterior and the setting. What an iconic place.

We were actually on Ynys Gybi, Holy Island, which is a small island off Ynys Môn. Holy Island takes its name from the large number of ancient religious sites and dwellings on the island. The footpath to a viewpoint overlooking South Stack is across heather moorland with nesting birds hiding in the dense coverage, so I was on my lead and under control. My human warned me that adders were often seen in this area. So, we hurridly headed along the path.

Under the stormy clouds to the south, we could see the mountains of Eryri, Snowdonia, across the Irish Sea. This area was the only part of Wales that rain wasn’t forecast for the day of our visit. We were glad that the rainclouds were keeping a healthy distance away. The rest of the sky was blue with patchy clouds. My human said that it was a Red Indian sky. Apatche! He is not only non-PC but also non-funny!

Elin’s Tower stands on the cliff tops overlooking South Stack Lighthouse. It was built as a summer house by the Stanley family of Penrhos in the early 19th century. It was used during the two world wars as a lookout tower. After becoming derelict, the RSPB restored it and is now used as an information centre.

Elin’s Tower is not merely a fantastic viewpoint ove South Stack Lighthouse but also a great place to observe the birdlife and sealife in the area. The Wicklow Mountains in Ireland can be seen from this spot on clear days. My human tried to spot them with his binoculars with no luck. He also tried to spot the seals that swim in these waters. Also, without luck. I think that he needs to take the lens caps off, but he knows best.

The cliffs are a home to a vast aray of birds such as the rarely seen chough, razorbills, guillemots, and puffins. We spent a short while watching and listening to the aerobatic display above the steep sided cliffs. The big feller said that his life flashed before him as he was leaning over the cliff to take a photo at the same time that a gull flew above me, and I barked. I won’t repeat what he called me but his face was a funny colour when he turned to me. I think that he is the one who needs to be on a short lead!

Stunning views down to the lighthouse can be had from the grassy hillside next to Elin’s Tower. The lighthouse was built in 1809 to guide ships into the nearby port of Holyhead. Access to the island can be gained down a 400 step stone staircase followed by a short hop over a steel footbridge. The original method to reach the island was in a wicker basket hauled by hemp rooes. 

Guided tours of the lighthouse can be purchased at the visitor centre. No pooches in there either. Or in the cafe. Dog unfriendly! I always thought that everyone likes Joe!

The cliffs are vertical and very high at the viewpoint and liable to erosion. So, as usual, I had to risk life and limb while my human made me sit as close to the edge as possible while he took photographs of me!

My human said that Roxy Music used the cliffs as a backdrop to photograph Jerry Hall for the cover of their Siren LP. I asked him who are Roxy Music and Jerry Hall. Also, what is an LP? He kept repeating the line,’What’s her name, Virginia Plain?’ in a very strange and irritating way. I worry about him!

In 1853, a huge storm wrecked many ships off the coast of Anglesey and ‘reputedly’ killed the lighthouse keeper, Jack Jones. His ghost is said to haunt the lighthouse to this day, slamming doors and banging on windows. The lighthouse is claimed to be one of the spookiest buildings in the UK. You humans have a vivid imagination, but you still wouldn’t get me to spend a night there!

We waved goodbye to Jack Jones’ ghost and headed back to the car. My human wanted to check out the ancient hut circles over the road from the parking spot. The Tŷ Mawr hut circles date from over 2500 years ago and were probably lived in up to 1700 years ago. There were originally over 50 of these homes dotted over the Holyhead Mountain area, with around 20 partially excavated still to be seen.

The huts had thick stone walls with rafters and a conical thatched roof. My human said that we would come back soon and spend a day hiking the area to see the rest of the huts and standing stones on the island. They must remind him of growing up in the olden days!!!

Till next time!